Tuesday, 26 February 2019

Guatemala: just how dangerous is it?

Statistically, there is no denying that Guatemala is a dangerous country in a dangerous neighborhood:




The interesting thing is that outside Guatemala City, the country does not feel all that dangerous.  This could be that as Gringos, we are blissfully unaware.  My explanation is that as relatively affluent tourists following the "Gringo Trail" to such places as Antigua and Lake Atitlan, we are relatively insulated from the horrors of extortion etc.


The biggest danger 


A fellow Gringo, nailed the situation for me.  He said the biggest danger for him, is that he is so charmed by the country that he keeps wanting to come back again and again.

Guatemala: how poor is it?

Any discussion of poverty opens the door to a dismal debate as to how best to capture all the discouraging deficits experienced by less affluent populations.  One pretty concrete measure is to make an international comparison of the percentage of infants that are under weight.

By this statistical metric, life is pretty dire for many people in Guatemala.






Anecdotally, the people here are short.  Stunting occurs when children receive inadequate nourishment during the first 1,000 days of their life.  

One Guatemalan was telling me about his journey as an illegal immigrant through Mexico.  He told me that he was tall enough to get through a lot of the police roadblocks in Mexico.  At 5 foot 6, he looked too tall to be from Guatemala.

Guatemala is the first place where I have seen public clinics that advertise dates for "Supplementation" for infants.

Does that mean ethical people should stay away on the grounds that they are exploiting the low wages of all the waiters, gardeners, etc that cater so gracefully to their needs? 

I would argue the opposite - this economy needs all the help it can get.  If you can have a good time while dropping some cash into the economy, so much the better. 

Antigua: Ain't it all a bloomin' shame?

More learned writers like to grace their work with quotes from Shakespeare and the classics.  The best I can do, is reach back in my fading memory to an old rugby song, which our time in Antigua brought to mind:

Twas on the bridge at midnight....

It's the same the whole world over
It's the poor what gets the blame
It's the rich what gets the pleasure
Ain't it all a bloomin' shame?

Antigua, Guatemala is a UNESCO world heritage site founded by the Spanish in the 16th century.  The colonial architecture frames the nearby volcanoes:




















The city is breathtakingly beautiful.  So what's the problem?  Why were we in such a hurry to leave?

Simply put, Antigua is the place where desperate mistreated Mayans meet the entitled Ladino elite, while clueless tourists take pictures.


It's not just the cats that are hungry
























Life's good for the Ladino Elite


"Ladino" is the label applied to the moneyed elite from Guatemala City.  The combination of affluence and fairness of skin, is not a coincidence.  

Often they are enjoying themselves in ways that seem quite mundane by Western standards.  The temptation to judge them, only arises because of the contrast with the Mayans who are bussed into the city to try and feed themselves, by peddling wares that nobody wants.

Here's a hen party we ran into.
















And here's a wedding party enjoying the luxurious surroundings of the world famous Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
























My own clueless Gringo moment



There was an odd atmosphere walking round Antigua late at night.  The place was well lit and heavily patrolled by armed police, so safety was not a concern.  The streets were eerily deserted except for the odd desperate peddlar.  

My own encounter was when I only just stopped myself from walking straight past a woman sitting on the ground outside a "tienda" store.  She had a basket of lollipops for sale.  She was nursing a baby.  For nutrition, she was eating one of her own lollipops.

My response to this situation?  I gave her $3.  If I had my time again, I like to think that I would give more.  But talk, as they say, is cheap.

Monday, 25 February 2019

Guatemala's Riviera: Stray Dogs, Scorching Black Sand and Deadly Rip Tides



Decoding Lonely Planet Guides


The first thing you need to know when you read a Lonely Planet Guide, is that the writers can never actually call a place a dump - otherwise who would bother buying the guide?  Case in point - Belgrade in Serbia, the only place where we have ever been robbed - is described as having "a certain Gritty Charm" - a description that is only 50% true.

I have not had the heart to read what Lonely Planet has to say about Monterrico on Guatemala's Pacific Coast.  I am guessing that the guide ascribes "an Appealing Funky Vibe" to the place.  Well it certainly is "Funky".  Appealing?  Let's see.... you cannot swim in the water, half the town is derelict, you could fry an egg on the sand...but yes, in a funny way, the place does have its charms.  Not so much that you want to come back, but not so little that you regret even coming.


Our "hellish" accommodation


For somebody who works as hard as I do, trying to live up to the "Whinging Pom" label, it can be a bit of a trial travelling with such a relentlessly cheerful, resilient companion.  So my miserable little whining heart skipped a beat, when she finally had to concede that our hotel room was "hellish".  

This is what it looked like in the middle of the day:




















The decor is still giving me nightmares:


The best thing about the place was that they did not charge us a penalty for moving down the road, and leaving three days early.


Not your typical beach destination


"Gallo" (rooster in Spanish) is the country's best selling beer brand.

























But that's no reason for this guy to put on his own impromptu screen test.























Even though you cannot safely swim in the water, the beach has a pleasant, unpretentious family atmosphere.















































Magic sunrise among the Mangroves


It was worth getting up before five, to share the dawn with the birds among the mangrove trees.

This guy was our outboard motor:




















We have toured mangroves before, but never with volcanoes in the background:




















This has to be one of the prettiest commutes in the world.



As so often happens, I had to wait until we got back to the dock, for the action shot of the day.





























Black sand beaches have their own beauty



























Bottom line


If you are a regular visitor to Guatemala (btw, not an oxymoron) why not give Monterrico a try?

Shopping in Guatemala

Big Macs:  Guatemala joined in the 50th birthday celebrations!







A translation of the company's August 2018 press release reads as follows:

"The Big Mac has conquered the hearts of Guatemalans and together they have lived great and delicious moments. This emblematic hamburger, which has transcended cultures and generations, is characterized as the favorite product of our customers and that is why McDonald's is celebrating its 50th anniversary, " said Paola Castañeda, Senior Marketing Manager of McDonald's Mesoamerica.

Who knew?  During the thirty six years of civil war, atrocities and corruption, people's hearts were living "great and delicious moments" courtesy of Big Macs.

Are Big Macs in Guatemala, cheap or expensive?  The answer depends on who you ask.  

According to the Economist's Big Mac Index website, a tourist from the United States gets a bargain.  In Guatemala a Big Mac costs 25 Quetzales.  At prevailing exchange rates that amounts to only $3.23, whereas back in the States it would cost $5.58.

For most Guatemalans however, a Big Mac is prohibitively expensive.  My Spanish language teacher listed the sort of daily wages, people can expect in different lines of work:





















If you are a "campesino" making 40 Quetzales for a day's back breaking labor in the field, a Big Mac might as well be caviar.

What are conscious shoppers to do in such circumstances?  Well, we can do ourselves and the locals a favor, by buying things that we do not strictly need.  Craft goods are not only beautiful, they are heartbreakingly cheap.

My scarf


It's fair to say that I am not known for sartorial elegance.  I have never spent a lot of money on clothes.  Nonetheless I am now the owner of a flamboyant scarf that any dandy would be proud of:





















I was lucky enough to get to meet, Micaela Juavez, the weaver who made it.  


She told me that it took a a whole week, of mornings and afternoons, to make it.  Because it was purchased at a weavers' co-operative in San Juan La Laguna, she could expect a fair share of the sale price.  It cost Q175 - equivalent to four Big Macs or $22.

Humming Birds


For family reasons, depictions of humming birds have a special significance for us.































This hummingbird was made by a young woman with a heart defect.  Her medical problems may have been the reason why she was short, even by Guatemalan standards.  The proceeds from her craft sales were helping to pay for her medical bills.
























"Chicken bus" picture


San Juan La Laguna is also home to a co-operative for Mayan folk artists.















It was tough to choose from all the wonderful work on display.  In the end we bought this "chicken bus" painting by Juan Perez Mendoza for Q1,200 ($155).





Ukulele cases


One of the problems facing local artisans is that they all make the same limited array of products.  Consequently they end up competing the price down to near zero.  Michele has been racking her brains to come up with an innovative design.  She hit upon the idea of commissioning a talented seamstress called  Debora Magali Gonzalez to make a few Ukulele cases.  Debora loved the challenge, and came up with cases that embodied design flair and craftsmanship.












































Of course we are now the proud owners of several ukulele cases, that we do not actually need.  I think, if you asked her nicely, Michele could be persuaded to part with them at the bargain price (for this hand made item) of US$37.50 (C$50) - just sayin' !

Samara: Sex and Other Supplements

Our brush with the Bloomsbury Group

While we were staying at Rheinhold's resort near Samara, we bumped into a woman called Mitey Roche.  Here is her website - https://www.miteyroche.com/about.  Mitey is a woman of diverse accomplishments.  As an actress, she took the leading role in the opening production of a Harold Pinter play.  As a painter, she has had her work exhibited in Cannes, Florence and Mallorca.
















Financially her most profitable artistic endeavor, has been the success she has enjoyed as a writer of five independently published, salacious, romance novels.  She told us that she was inspired to go down this path by the success of “50 Shades of Grey”.  She felt she had to be able to write better than that.  The proof has been in the pudding.  She has established a dedicated readership, who appreciate her ability to combine sexually explicit prose with romantic fiction.  She said many of her readers start off with Harry Potter.  From there they move on to Twilight and 50 Shades.  Despite my sincere protestations of admiration for her craft, Mitey would not indulge any curiosity I might have.  She adamantly refused to divulge her pen name.

Her inhibitions on this front might be down to the fact that she is the daughter of acclaimed poet and classical translator Paul Roche.

When Paul Roche died in 2007, there were tributes to his erudition in many papers, including the Telegraph and the New York Times.  Part of his celebrity derived from his connections to the Bloomsbury Group.

The Bloomsbury Group’s mystique arose from the genius of its members in such diverse fields as Art (Duncan Grant), History (Lytton Strachey), Economics (Maynard Keynes) and Literature (E.M. Forster).  Interest in the group has only been enhanced by the complexity of their love lives.  Often they experienced the “love that [at that time] dare not speak its name”.  In many cases they adapted by establishing an apparently conventional marriage with a person from the opposite sex, while carrying on a passionate relationship with someone of their own sex.

While he did not follow this template exactly, Paul Roche certainly provided a flamboyant foot note to the history of the Bloomsbury Group.  The story starts with him wandering round Picadilly in 1947 in a sailor suit, even though he was an ordained priest and even though he had never served with the Royal Navy.  It was in this garb that he attracted the attention of Duncan Grant.  Paul Roche modelled for many of the artist's paintings.

When the clergy of Lincoln Cathedral commissioned Grant to paint a series of murals, they apparently got more than they bargained for.  For many years the chapel containing his murals, was reduced to a store room.



I cannot imagine why the good clerics were so upset






















Grant was married to a fellow artist, Vanessa Bell.  That did not stop him and Roche establishing a long, intense (but arguably platonic) relationship that ended only with Grant’s death in 1978.

After meeting Grant, Roche went on to father a child out of wedlock, before finally marrying Clarissa Tanner.  They had four children, the youngest of which is our friend Mitey.

Clarissa seems to have been a remarkable woman in her own right.  She was one of the few people to reach out to Silvia Plath in the bleak last months before the young poet’s suicide.  Likewise she set aside any jealousy she may have felt, and welcomed Duncan Grant in his last days into her home, so that he could die among friends. 


Reinhold's Redemption:  Sleeping Dogs don't lie


Rheinhold is the fictional name (for reasons which will become clear later) of an eccentric 69 year old German proprietor of a hotel set back in the jungle, some ten minutes’ walk from a deserted beach.

Like a lot of the best travel experiences, this one started with major misgivings.  It was only after we had paid for our booking, that we came across a scathing online review of the place.  Our concern only increased when another German local, practically begged us not to make the mistake of going to this hotel.  I was left expecting some Teutonic version of Basil Fawlty, complete with silly walks and barked orders to the staff.
  
As it turned out, the only similarity with Fawlty Towers was that nobody mentioned the war.

The way a person treats defenceless animals often provides a clue to their true personality.  Rheinhold has a couple of aging arthritic Labradors.  Nothing is too much trouble for these dogs.  They are taken down to the beach every day for a swim in the surf.  During the heat of the day they get to cool off by sleeping in a pit of loose earth.















Rheinhold’s menagerie extends to a “Playmobile” type farm that includes chicken, geese and a solitary sheep.


























This sheep never got the memo about belonging to a nervous, skittish breed.  It liked liked nothing better than to chase panicked, honking, geese around the pen.  The staff were quite disgusted with the sheep's mischievous behaviour, and used to hurl rocks and branches at it, as hard as they could.

The only animal we did not appreciate was this guy













Nocturnal trips got a lot more complicated after this encounter.  The process involved locating the cell phone, switching on the torch app, and then scanning the floor for any nasty intruders.


Reinhold's Redemption:  A "Shawshank" beach


There’s an iconic scene in the Shawshank movie where, at the end of their terrible odyssey, Tim Robbins and Morgan Freeman finally get to Zihuateneo, and are able to celebrate their freedom walking along a deserted beach.   Anybody who has been to “Zihua” recently, will know that it is heavily developed and far from deserted.

For the real experience you can go to this beach which is ten minutes walk away from Rheinhold’s resort:























Reinhold's Redemption:  Sex and other Supplements


As soon as we arrived, we got the first clue that things might not be as they seemed.  We were met by a lively young German lady, Hilda (name also changed) straight out of high school.  Far from resembling the intimidated intern suggested by the online review, she looked blissfully happy.  In fact, there was an odd, slightly glassy, aspect to her facial expression.


The strangeness continued when Rheinold treated me to a dissertation on all the supplements he is taking.  Apparently, his physique had been much the worse for wear after forty years of partying.  His blood pressure was high and he was developing type 2 diabetes.  He responded with Germanic thoroughness, spending months conducting online research, as well as spending a small fortune getting supplements couriered down to his lonely outpost.


The results are impressive.  The blood pressure is down.  His blood sugar is back to normal.  His hips have shrunk to the point where his pants keep slipping down and revealing a bit of butt cleavage.  He is physically strong and youthful.  The only thing that betrays his years of excess, are the black rings around his leathery face.  The effect resembles a person who has forgotten to take off their Halloween make up. 

He went into some detail about his path to physical redemption.  Apparently the sugar craving that we all experience, is attributable to the presence of sugar loving parasites in our brains.  He fixed this problem by ingesting Turpentine pills.  His efforts to combat stomach parasites were so successful, that on the occasion when he was taken short on the beach, he was able to see thousands of the little blighters wriggling around in the sand.

However he reserved his most significant look, for the moment when he confided that all these supplements had also restored his libido.  I did not think much about it until a couple of days later.  There’s not a lot going on in this part of the world, so tongues started to wag when it was reported that he had been seen strolling along the beach with a bikini clad Hilda, while his hand rested on her barely clothed, barely legal, behind.

Friday, 25 January 2019

Samara Beach: “Pura Vida” in Word and Deed


What is "Pura Vida"?


Linguistically, the translation of Costa Rica’s universal “Pura Vida” motto is elastic.  The literal meaning of “Pure Life” can be expanded to cover just about anything that’s affirmative, from “good luck”, to “well done”, to ”you are right”...

Practically, this intangible ethic produces a quality of life that is measurably better in all sorts of ways:  life expectancy, bio diversity, drinkable tap water, stable democracy, incomes, income inequality, lack of violence, literacy, transparency etc.

 Heck, even the national soccer team punches way above its weight!  At the risk of picking the scab on my tender English sensibilities, I went to the trouble of reminding myself how England played in the 2014 World Cup.  After losing to Italy, and after losing to Uruguay, the "Three Lions" finally won a point with a goalless draw against Costa Rica.  By contrast, Los Ticos got all the way to the quarter finals, courtesy of a miserly defence that only conceded two goals over the whole tournament.  In fact, if they had won the penalty shoot out versus the Netherlands, there is no guarantee that they would not, in turn, have beaten a rather underwhelming Argentina team that somehow staggered through to the final.  What might have been!  Not bad for a Latin American country of five million people.


No guns, no gangs, no garbage, no gringo hunting peddlers



We have not experienced any of the trade offs people associate with a Mexican vacation.  There are no trucks filled with soldiers armed to the teeth, driving up and down a tourist beach.  You are not fending off peddlers every five minutes.  The garbage is sorted and disposed of.




Maybe it's because of the never ending Euro crisis, but things are a little different in Southern Europe.  We took this picture in Corfu last year, but it could just as easily have been taken in Sicily.

























The local Spanish Language School gets the Swiss seal of approval



Here is the link to the local Spanish language school – https://www.interculturacostarica.com/samara-beach .  

Some of the largest Swiss educational travel agents are big supporters of the school.  Michele can testify that there is a reason why so many Swiss people head for this tiny beach resort to learn Spanish.  As a veteran of many language schools, she has never come across a place so well organized and with such good facilities.  It doesn’t hurt that it’s smack on the beach and that its classrooms are air conditioned.





Having this school is a big win for the Samara economy.  It is a particular boost for single women who can now earn an income as "Tica Mama" home stay hostesses.  The deal is that for a very reasonable price, students get board, lodging and language practice in somewhat rustic (i.e. hot) accommodation.

The resulting cultural encounters give rise to many stories.  The other day one, of our friends was politely asked to leave the house for a couple of hours by a stately, "traditionally built" woman.  The reason?  She was expecting a visit from her "lover".

Another time a student tried to use the micro wave oven, only to discover that it was "roto" (broken).  Asked why the microwave was still taking up space in the cramped kitchen, the hostess explained that the appliance was a great place to store dishes. 


This road smells tasty!


Despite the luxuriant jungle setting, Samara enjoys a desert climate at this time of year.  Consequently any dirt roads are naturally dusty.  Normally people would use oil, if they wanted to keep the dust down.  Here they use molasses.























Walking the talk on Climate Change


When it comes to acting on climate change, the country sets a high bar.





























The country's electric utility also provides cell phone coverage.  We had to go to their offices  in order to fix our cell phones.  This poster was on the wall:





























Using my admittedly dodgy Spanish, the poster reads as follows:


More than 90% of the country’s electricity comes from renewable sources.  Use electricity efficiently, so that the country does not have to rely for extra electricity on fossil fuels which cause global warming.

Just in case this all sounds too good to be true, I should also point out that we've experienced the occasional three or four hour black out in both cell phone coverage and electricity.

I guess it would also be churlish to point out that most of the nearly three million annual visitors a year, get here by plane.


Good Food, Good People


The Fruteria


Samara does not have a haggling culture.  Everywhere you go, the water from a refrigerated coconut costs you 500 Colones or one US Dollar.  We could buy it anywhere, but we prefer to go to our favorite “Fruteria”.




























The young family working there, always have a smile.  After you have drunk from the coconut, they are happy to chop it up so that you can eat the pulp.  There is no thought of a tip (honestly!)  You can also walk out of there with an armful of produce, for less than US$10.

Linguist by day, baker by night


Here is a picture that Michele took of me and Celia.  Celia makes a living selling baked goods off the back of her bicycle.




























The success of her business is attributable to the mixture of an effusive personality and incredible linguistic versatility.  Within five minutes, we heard her converse fluently in Spanish, German, French and English.  She was born in the Soviet Union.  Her parents returned to Angola when the Iron Curtain came down.  They later moved to Portugal, then Spain, and finally ended up in Switzerland.

One tough Canadian "Mujer"


Over the last seven years, Joannie has built up "La Princesa" into the dominant bakery at this end of town.




















Incidentally, the business is for sale for US$69,000:





















As you can see, Joanni is Canadian and proud of it.  Her business might be called La Princesa, but she ain't no princess.  The subject of travelling, as a single woman, in a Muslim country came up.  Her worst experience was having to skip town in Morocco, after "kicking the shit" out of a local guy, who had hoped to molest her.

What happens when good looking young “Gringas” meet magnetic Tico men?


You get a pre-school that is a wonderful fusion of both cultures.  Here is a promotional poster for a great fund raiser concert, that was held the other day:




















One of the school’s murals:


PS:  as an ever anxious Dad of two daughters, I am not necessarily recommending this life choice.  Just saying!